Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life - William Finnegan

n**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard.--Sports Illustrated Included in President Obama's 2016 Summer Reading List n nBarbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pas…

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